Day 039 – Yemassee, NC > Savannah, GA

I was doing some reading about Yemassee last night and was pleasantly surprised to hear that Frank Lloyd Wright designed a plantation named Auldbrass a few miles away starting in 1938 and had continual involvement with its construction for the next 20 years. It was never a plantation in the traditional Southern sense of slaves laboring to grow mono crops, but was conceived of as a bachelor hunting lodge/farm by its owner C. Leigh Stevens. It’s history is interesting both because there were problems getting materials to build it during the war and the fact it still isn’t finished, but will be completed due to the interest of film producer Joel Silver, of Die Hard fame, who purchased it in 1987 and saved it from ruin. He has been working with Wright’s great grandson to complete it based on the original plans. I would have loved to get a tour, but it’s only open every other year for one weekend. If you are ever in the area in November 2015 check it out.

I also did a bit of research on the route between Yemassee and Savannah and decided it would be worth the less than pleasant ride to get to get there. I got a late start again due to updating my blog, but honestly, also because I didn’t want to leave the air-conditioning of the motel room. I was tempted to spend another night so I could rest – I am feeling beat up, but decided to get moving the 50 or so miles to Georgia.

Just outside of Yemassee on 17 I saw what first looked like a mirage – a big sign that said peach cider, cherry cider in huge letters. Upon closer inspection it turned out to be a store (pic) that sold everything peach you could want – pie, cider, syrup, jam, fritter, etc. along with cherry and black berry in the same form.  And of course boiled peanuts. For breakfast I got myself a smallish peach pie, a medium bottle of peach cider and a small container of boiled cajun peanuts from the two nice ladies working behind the counter. I sat outside on a rocking chair in front letting the sweat run off my body in small streams as I chowed down on my breakfast bounty. Sure I knew the huge amount of sugar was going to come back and bite me in the ass during the ride, but stomach won over brain and stomach was very, very happy at the end of consuming it all.

The humidity was lower so instead of swimming it was more like wading on my bicycle. 17 wasn’t too bad and I was on a frontage road along 95 for a good bit of the trip. It was one of those days when I actually got visibly excited when I could see a shadow cast by a cloud onto the road. I was in ecstasy when I found a bunch of trees growing over the road for a couple of hundred feet (pic).

I got an early dinner in Hardeeville at a Mexican restaurant. I was the only one there and the owner/chef was very cute. She said she didn’t speak much English, but would make me some food. I sat at the bar sweating with a beer while watching Chili manhandle Spain in the World Cup when her daughter and cousin (?) came in. I make it a point to say that I’ve been bicycling to give an explanation for why I’m a sodded mess and he daughter pointed out that I was crazy. That a car or even a motorcycle would be an easier choice for getting to Key West. I love the honesty of youth. She translated for her mother who then told her that she should ride her bicycle to work. Ha ha ha.

I finally made it to Savannah around 6 PM and decided to get a cheap motel and convalesce for a day so I could then go out and explore Savannah in good form. I haven’t stayed with anyone from Warmshowers since Robert and Lisa in Wilmington. They are on day 6 of their Continental Divide Ride and besides some flight problems and rain look to be doing great – check out Lisa’s blog. I’m craving a home stay so I am going to plan out the next week tomorrow to see if contacting people a few days before improves my chances.