I got out of my tent this morning to the adobe ruin that my tent was within to the rising sun that marks the start of my day when spending the night outdoors. It really is the best alarm clock.
I know the heat of the day is coming, but I want to spend some more time in Terlingua first. I got so engrossed with talking to people on the porch yesterday that I neglected to take pictures of the actual buildings and area. I also wanted to see a bit more of the ghost town. It would have been nice to take a walking tour, but June is the hottest month in the area and a time when lots of places shut down so locals can take a break.
After getting a bunch of pictures, which I actually put in yesterdays post, I grabbed a cup of coffee and a breakfast burrito from La Posada Milagro, which is also an Inn. As I was waiting for my food I saw a guy with what looked like a European beer shirt and asked him about it. Turns out it was – Mohren an Austrian beer and he, Michnus, and his wife, Elsebie, were on a tour of the US, Mexico, Central and South America by dual sport motorcycle.
They used to be in the corporate world, but decided it would be more fun to set out and explore the world. They’ve done multi-month trips through Europe, Africa and now their current trip. In between they work and in one instance started making their own adventure travel bags since what they found in South Africa was to expensive.
I appreciated how they were doing their trip and it got me to thinking how nice it would be for me to travel with a partner or better yet wife. Hmmm. Something to keep in mind.
I had such a good time talking with them that I ended up getting a later start than I wanted to and would be paying for it in the heat, but that’s how it is when I meet people.
As I was leaving town I went by Passing Wind, HA HA – great name, which I saw on the way into Terlingua because it has the conning tower of a submarine on prominent display, but didn’t realize what it was. The owner and I exchanged waves ad now that I am researching to write this post I wish I would have stopped to talk with him. Turns out his name is Jimmy, he is from NYC and Passing Wind is a, “get together place for friends, acquaintances, and anyone passing by.” Another place to check out when I am next in Terlingua.
Michnus and Elsie ended up passing me by as I was slowly pedaling up a him with my load in the growing heat. I have to admit I was a bit envious of their powered rides, but didn’t realize how envious I would be a few hours later.
I made it to the resort town of Lajitas 13 miles away on the banks of the Rio Grande and stopped to get something to drink. When I say resort town I literally mean the entire town is now a private resort for those wishing to spend a bit more money than they would have to in Terlingua or Study Butte. It has some interesting history including, Clay Henry a beer drinking goat that was mayor for three terms. Or rather there were three different goats named Clay Henry that were mayor.
Seeing the Rio Grande was a bit depressing. It really is just a creek. In fact the Rio Grande is all used up by time it gets to Presidio, TX for irrigation and drinking water by Colorado, New Mexico and Texas. Most of the water South of Presidio is supplied by the Rio Conchos originating in Mexico. How does the Grand River disappear?
Another 12 miles past Lajitas and I was frying. My brain was staring to drip out of my ears and the two lane road was turning into 4 and then 6. Time to pull over in a teepee (pic). I chose the middle one splayed out on the cement table thankful for the shade. A family were nice enough to five me tow bottle of cold water out of concern. I had plenty, but cold is better than hot so I took them.
I ended up spending 5 hours in the sweltering heat before it dipped down enough to continue on. A 15% grade (pic) was the first thing to greet me. After that it was a lot of winding turns and hills as the day gave way to night. I didn’t get to my motel until 1:30 am. It made for a long day.